Deck Footing & Post Calculator — Spacing, Size & Depth

The layer under the frame, sized the way the code thinks: footing count and spacing from the beam layout, diameter from soil bearing, burial from the frost line, and the 4×4-vs-6×6 post call — with deck-block suitability included.

Last updated: October 25, 2026 · Reviewed by the Joist Calculator framing team

Deck Footing & Post Calculator

Footing count, diameter, burial depth and post size — the layer under the frame.

Presets:

✓ preview: 12' 0"

✓ preview: 12' 0"

= the deck beam span it must carry

guard & bracing rules key off this

Your building department prints this number — footings bear below it (IRC R403.1.4), never above.

Footings required

3 × ⌀16″

3 per beam × 1 beam at 6 ft spacing · buried to 30″ (frost 30″)

Load per post

1,800 lb

36.0 sq ft tributary × 50 psf

Deck post size

6×6 with a rated post cap

Concrete footings required — posts this tall exceed what surface blocks are rated for. Poured footings with a post base bring the load to undisturbed soil below frost.

Footing diameter uses the tributary-area method: post load ÷ soil bearing = footing area, rounded up to the next even inch with a 12″ practical minimum. Post spacing sets the beam span — verify the beam itself with a span check before setting posts. Local codes amend minimums; this schedule is the conversation starter, not the permit.

Code reality check: footings are the most inspected part of a deck, and local amendments override national tables on frost depth, soil assumptions, and minimum sizes. This deck footing calculator uses the tributary-area method behind the IRC R507 footing tables — the same logic your inspector applies — but your permit office's handout wins every disagreement. Verify frost depth and soil bearing locally before digging.

This deck footing and post calculator completes Joist Calculator's deck framing suite: boards on top (the material takeoff), joists in the middle (the deck joist calculator), beams under those, and now the footings and posts that everything above finally stands on. Open the main joist calculator homepage to start at the top of that stack, or browse the full calculator hub and work downward. Each layer shares one load convention with the next, so the 50 psf a joist page assumed is the same 50 psf this page delivers to the soil.

Footings are where deck failures start quietly. A deck can run an undersized joist for years — it bounces, it warns. An undersized footing gives no warning: the soil consolidates a fraction of an inch, the post drops, the beam rolls, and the warning arrives as a sag nobody can un-pour. That is why the footing math below is deliberately boring — tributary area times load, divided by soil — and why the sections that follow spend more words on burial depth and soil than on concrete volume. The invisible layer deserves the boring math.

Deck Footing Spacing Is a Beam Question in Disguise

A deck footing spacing calculator looks like it is about holes in the ground. It is not — it is about the beam above them. The posts (and their footings) sit wherever the beam needs support, which makes the spacing decision a beam-span decision wearing work boots.

1

Pick the beam build first

(2) 2×8 treated is the common deck beam; (2) 2×10 and (3) 2×10 reach further. Each build has an allowable span between posts — that span is your footing spacing. Guessing the spacing first and finding a beam later reverses the logic and usually wastes footings.

2

Let the beam answer set the post layout

A beam good for 6 ft under your load means posts at 6 ft max: a 20 ft deck run needs ⌈20 ÷ 6⌉ + 1 = 5 posts per beam. The calculator's spacing slider is literally the beam span dial — every half-foot tighter buys beam margin at the price of one more hole.

3

Check the post, then dig

Each post carries tributary width × post spacing × psf — the load the footing must hand to soil and the post must hand to the beam. That is the same number the footing diameter and the post size both read from, which is why one calculator covers all three decisions.

Sizing the beam above the posts?

The wood beam span calculator sizes built-up deck beams from the same tributary load this page feeds to the soil — run them as a pair and the beam, posts, and footings all agree.

Open beam calculator

Deck Post Size Chart: Height and Load Make the Call

A deck post size chart is really two charts — beam span above, footing bearing below — with the post as the connecting column. The table below translates the calculator's two ruling inputs into a recommendation you can defend at the lumberyard.

SituationPostConnectionWhy
Frame under 24 in. off grade, light load4×4 acceptableBeam let in or block bearingShort post, low load — the one case notching harm is small
Frame 2–4 ft off grade, ≤ ~4,000 lb/post6×6Rated post cap, through-boltedUnnotched 6×6 carries several times a notched 4×4
Posts over 4 ft (freestanding decks)6×6 + diagonal bracingRated cap + braced bayLateral load path — no house to brace against
Hot tub / heavy zones6×6, own footing lineDedicated beam + capsConcentrated load gets its own load path, not a shared one
The notching trap: a 4×4 notched to seat a beam loses most of its capacity at exactly the section doing the carrying — industry failure reports put notched-post failures near 2,000 lb, a number an ordinary deck beam post can exceed. If a beam seat requires a notch, that is the design telling you the post should have been a 6×6 with a cap.
Concrete deck footings with post bases set below grade ready for 6x6 postsInvisible engineering: footings, bases, and posts before a single joist landsPhoto: Unsplash

Deck Block Calculator: When Surface Blocks Beat Concrete

Searches for a deck block calculator (or TuffBlock calculator — same product family) are really asking one question: can this deck skip the concrete? The honest answer is a short checklist, because blocks are a real product with a real rating, not a shortcut:

Blocks work when ALL of these hold

  • Frame stays under 30 in. off grade — nothing you can stand under
  • Post height (or block bearing) 24 in. or less
  • Per-post load under ~1,500 lb — the calculator's light-platform case
  • Set on compacted, level, drained gravel — never raw soil or turf
  • Frost heave tolerated: the deck is allowed to move with the ground

Concrete footings instead when ANY of these apply

  • Raised deck with posts — frost will heave a surface block every winter
  • Per-post load above the block's rating (check the listed capacity)
  • Attached deck — the ledger may forgive movement, the beam ends will not
  • Hot tub, roofed, or snow-country decks — load and frost both bite
  • Guarded decks over 30 in. — the guard posts need real anchorage

Block capacities are listed per product (commonly 1,500–2,000 lb for the larger pyramid blocks) — the calculator's load-per-post figure is exactly the number to hold against that label. Snow-country decks fail this test on frost alone, no matter how light the platform.

The Same Deck, Planned Two Ways

A 16×20 freestanding deck — the layout where footing decisions compound hardest. The before column is the most common real-world plan; the after column is the same deck through this calculator.

Before — guessed
  • "Blocks everywhere are easier" — 12 blocks set on soil, frost will walk the frame within two winters
  • 4×4 posts notched for the beam — the load lands on the notch, capacity cut at the worst section
  • Posts spaced by joist-length leftovers — 7 ft spans, then a surprise beam upgrade mid-build
  • No tributary math — the outer posts quietly carry 2,400 lb on a 1,500 lb assumption
After — calculated
  • 10 footings at ⌀18″ buried 36″ to frost — heave eliminated at the bearing, not fought at the frame
  • 6×6 posts in rated caps — no notch, capacity several times the demand
  • Posts at 6 ft = the (2) 2×10 beam's real span — one consistent number end to end
  • 2,400 lb per post ÷ 1,500 psf soil = 1.6 sq ft of bearing — the diameter that makes it true
Tip: the after column costs about one extra hole and one upgraded post per side compared to the before column — the cheapest insurance in the whole deck budget, bought before the concrete truck arrives instead of after the sag does.

Deck Footing Depth: Frost Wins Every Argument

The deck footing depth question has one governing rule and two supporting details. All three fit in a paragraph, and all three are inspection items:

  1. 1

    Bear below the frost line. IRC R403.1.4 requires footings to reach below frost penetration; your local depth runs from 0 in. (parts of the Gulf Coast) to 60 in. (upper Midwest and mountain states). The calculator's frost slider feeds the burial line directly — and no, a deeper footing does not excuse skipping the diameter math.

  2. 2

    Bear on competent soil. Twelve inches minimum embedment even in frost-free regions, and never on fill: topsoil, the old patio's base sand, or the trench backfill from the utility line all compress. If the hole fills with water, pump it before the pour — concrete on mud is a footing-shaped boat.

  3. 3

    Keep wood off the soil. A post base hardware lifts the post end above the concrete; a poured pier (or a rated block) carries the transition. Ground-contact treatment slows rot — hardware on a proper base eliminates the wet end grain that starts it.

Tip: bell the bottom

The footing diameter the calculator returns assumes bearing across the full base area. A flared (belled) bottom delivers it; a straight auger hole in loose soil delivers less. Two minutes with a tamping bar at the bottom is worth an inch of diameter.

Adirondack rule

In heavy-frost regions, footing shape matters as much as depth: a wide base with a narrower stem resists frost grip better than a uniform cylinder, and cardboard tube forms above the bell make the stem cheap. Ask the permit office which detail they inspect for.

Footing & Post Questions, Answered With Numbers

Q1How far apart should deck footings be?▼

Deck footing spacing equals the deck beam span — the beam between two posts is the span, so the posts (and their footings) sit at whatever distance the beam can carry. For built-up treated beams under a typical 40/10 psf deck that lands at 5–8 ft depending on beam size; a (2) 2×8 reaches about 6 ft, deeper or triple builds reach further. The calculator above shows the post count your spacing produces — tighten the slider and watch the footing count (and the beam's margin) grow together. Size the beam itself with the wood beam span calculator, then let its answer set this page's spacing.

Q2How deep do deck footings need to be?▼

Below the frost line, full stop — a footing that heaves once lifts the post, and the deck never sits flat again. Your building department publishes the local frost depth (0–60 in. across the US; the calculator's slider covers it), and IRC R403.1.4 requires bearing below it. Two additions matter: the footing must also bear on undisturbed or compacted soil (12 in. minimum embedment even in frost-free regions), and the hole should flare or bell at the bottom so the base area matches the diameter the calculator computed — a straight-sided hole in loose soil under-delivers the bearing area.

Q3Can I use deck blocks instead of concrete footings?▼

Deck blocks — the precast pyramid footings, including TuffBlock-type surface blocks — are legitimate for one specific case: low platforms. The working limits are a frame under 30 in. off grade, short post or block-to-beam bearing, per-post loads under about 1,500 lb, and soil that drains. Outside that envelope, blocks fail in two ways: they ride on the surface, so frost lifts them, and their small bearing pad concentrates load on soil the footing math assumed was generous. The calculator's block verdict applies exactly these limits — when it flips to concrete, it is the frost depth or the post load doing the flipping, not the brand of block.

Q4What size deck post do I need — 4×4 or 6×6?▼

Height decides before load does. A 4×4 notched to carry a beam fails at roughly 2,000 lb, and notching is how most 4×4 posts get used — a 6×6 with a rated post cap carries several times that without any notch. The modern deck standard is therefore simple: 6×6 posts for anything that stands more than about 2 ft above grade or carries more than a light platform's load, 4×4 reserved for grade-hugging platforms where the beam sits nearly on the block. Posts over 4 ft tall add diagonal bracing on freestanding decks — the calculator's recommendation line applies both rules to your numbers.

Q5How do I find the soil bearing capacity for my deck footings?▼

Most residential deck footing design uses 1,500 psf — the IRC's default assumption when no soil test exists — and the conservative answer is to keep using it unless you know better. Firm sand and gravel soils typically rate 2,000–3,000 psf and shrink the footing diameter an inch or two; soft clay can rate lower and grows the footing. The local building department knows your area's default value, and a garage slab's performance is a decent field test: if the neighborhood settles, assume 1,500 and round the footing up an inch. When in doubt, the cost difference between a 14″ and a 16″ hole is a few shovels of concrete.

Q6Do footings go under every deck post, even at the house?▼

The ledger deck's beam end still needs footings — every post that carries the beam gets one, frost depth and all, whether the post is 20 ft from the house or 20 in. The house side of an attached deck does not get footings because the ledger hands its share of the load to the foundation, which is one reason a ledger can never fasten to brick veneer, stucco, or a cantilever: those have no footing-grade load path behind them. Freestanding decks double the footing count because both beams stand on their own posts — the calculator's beam-layout switch shows the count flip.

Q7What is the difference between a footing and a footer?▼

Nothing except spelling and region — 'deck footer calculator' and 'deck footing calculator' describe the same buried concrete pad that spreads a post's load into the soil. 'Footer' is the older trades term and dominates casual search; 'footing' is what the code book and this page use. The post is the column above it, the pier (if used) is the concrete or block column between footing and post, and the hardware — post base, cap, anchor — connects the stack. All four layers belong in the schedule the calculator copies for you.

Q8Can a hot tub deck use smaller footings if the tub has its own legs?▼

No — the tub's weight enters the deck through the joists either way, and the joists deliver it to beams, then posts, then footings. A filled 4-person spa adds 3,500–4,500 lb over its footprint; the posts under the tub zone see loads no standard footing schedule predicted. Either run this calculator with the 60 psf hot-tub preset and accept the footings it calls for, or drop a dedicated beam under the tub with its own posts and footings sized exactly for the tub zone. What never works is hoping the tub's plastic feet 'spread it out' — they spread it into the decking, which forwards every pound to the same footings.

The footing is the last line item of a deck plan and the first one an inspector looks at. Close the loop upward: the deck joist calculator sizes the frame these posts support, and the deck material calculator prices the boards above it. Run this deck footing calculator with the wood beam span calculator as a pair — spacing decides beam, beam decides post, post decides footing, and all four agree when they share one tributary number. The Joist Calculator homepage lists every tool in the chain, and the calculator hub organizes them by framing layer.

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